Florence – Feb 24
As a small preamble to this
extenuated blog, I would like to say that these events are now almost three
weeks old in my mind. I may not sift through them as easily due to the extended
circumstance in which they were written. Thank you, as per the usual, for your
patience with my blogs! Those of you that read these are amazing.
Enough with the flattering! Let’s do
this. Days 2 & 3 went as follows:
The morning after our first night in
Italy, we rose relatively early and the five of us readied ourselves for the
long haul to the great city of Florence, a four to five-hour drive from Turin.
After escaping the crazed hurry of
the city morning, we reached the open road through the countryside of
northwestern Italy [I’m sure our valiant driver, Lisa, let out a sigh of relief
once on the country interstate]. We were to head east for about an hour, and
then divert our path from the ever-nagging route that the “Navi” wanted to take
us on. Our old-fashioned, paper map and live navigator route would take us
south toward the coast, passed the city of Genoa.
Our path led us through the coastal
mountains, climbing up toward the passes and tunnels that were dug through the
mountain to better access the Mediterranean. The seasons seemed to change with
every passing second: we drove through bouts of sunshine, torrents of rain and
sleet, then outright snow with white-patched roads sending chills through the
car as we passed the intensely charged moments in quiet concentration, then
back down through tunnels and along the side of the mountain, through quieter
rain, then into the glorious sunlight offered by the reflections of the sea.
My first sight of the Mediterranean.
Though brief, it wouldn’t be my last. The coastal highway guided us along the
mountainous terrain that fringed the sea. We passed high mountain villages
tucked into singular valleys, then low, sweeping port cities with docks loaded
with cranes and crates waiting for the next floating giant to take its fill.
The sea glittered, as the sun shone through the patches of cloudy skies. The
grey of the sky, churning with clouds, melded with the grey of the sea,
churning with waves to create an almost endless perspective: the horizon was
lost as the sky met the sea. Then, it was all gone in a flash as the car
entered another tunnel.
The tunnels showed us dramatic
changes in landscape: one moment, the sea with a city fastened to its shores,
then after the darkness of the tunnel, the next moment would bring us higher
still in the mountains facing a half-modern, half-antiquated city abutted to
the mountainside. Needless to say, the drive proved to be an absolutely
marvelous experience.
Once we left the final crossing of
snowy peaks, we eased down into a wide flat, possibly as wide as the peninsula
itself. The sun shone again, and we decided to drop off the freeway for a quick
bite to eat at a roadside convenience station.
These stations are positioned all
along the toll-sustained interstates and highways of Italy [at least, all along
the portions of Italy I was able to see]. This particular station was fixed
with a bustling, chow-line restaurant; a bit more stylish than a regular
canteen. The cook grimaced at my attempt to pronounce the Italian pasta: a
creamy mixture sprinkled with salty bits of smoked pork on top of spaghetti
noodles. My first Italian pasta! Even though it was at a slightly
commercialized establishment, the pasta was great. It tasted even better due to
the fact that the sun was shining, and I finally had the time to stretch my
legs, but that’s just complicating the equation.
Bolstered by the quick stop, we
quickly finished the final leg of the journey. All the while, we discussed a
dilemma: we had booked tickets at the Uffizi Art Museum, but we were worried
that we would not make it to the museum in time to pick up the tickets. The
information provided on the booking slip hinted to the fact that refunds
weren’t thought of as a habitual action; it also hinted to the fact that rules
were of the utmost importance. We were all a bit on edge, especially since that
just added to the fact that we had been driving for almost five hours.
With the city in sight, the car was
parked in a lot by a supermarket (free parking at the edge of the city, a great
way to save on cash!). After spending a few more euros on tram tickets into the
city, we were off. The tram took us to the main train station of Florence, near
the ancient heart of the city. A heart, we would soon find out, that still beat
with the strength and pride of its earliest days.
The group oriented itself, and then
we were off, arms full of our luggage. As we walked, I sensed that we would
soon be in sight of the Duomo of the Florence Cathedral. This building, of
wondrous magnitude, had been one of the sole reasons I committed myself to the
journey. They say it is the journey, not the destination that matters. In this
singular case, I would have to disagree.
As we half-walked, half-jogged down
the sidewalk, dodging through the crowds of tourists and locals, alike, I
spotted the great dome. As a pilgrim might stop upon his arrival to the great
Jerusalem, I stopped, mid-step, and gazed up at the structure before me. I lost
all sense of the world around me, and my eyes moistened. I could hear Michelle,
“Jesse!” But I couldn’t tear my eyes away. “Jesse! It’s the dome!” I could hear
her smiling, “Yes, I know it is!” I was positively beaming from the excitement.
I had made it.
Though, as soon as I had made it, we
had to be off. The rest of the group had hurried off down another street, away
from the dome. The Uffizi Gallery was temporarily placed higher on our list of
priorities, especially since we were running about 20 minutes late. Struggling
under the weight of our bags, we arrived at the gallery, queued in the short
line for reserved tickets, and, with luck, we received our tickets and headed
off to pass through the metal detectors!
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Plaza of the Uffizi Gallery. Photo courtesy of Michelle S. |
The Uffizi Gallery, as I read on
Wikipedia, was one of the largest, oldest, and most famous Italian Renaissance
art collections in the Western world. A few of the well-known pieces [I qualify
well-known, as in, I knew them before I got there… Which, obviously, means that
they are well-known]: The Birth of Venus
by Botticelli, Medusa by Caravaggio,
and (my favorite) Judith DecapitatingHolofernes by Artemisia Gentileschi [one of the most important works by a
female artist of her time]. Overall, the experience was dumb-founding and a bit
exhausting. We arrived later in the afternoon, and the gallery closed earlier
in the evening. By the end, we passed through many rooms at a brisk walk,
bringing a new definition to the term “moving picture.”
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Il Duomo, the Baptisery, and the Campanile by night. |
From Uffizi, the group traversed its
way back through the Florentine streets, passed the now glowing Basilica di
Santa Maria del Fiore (Florence Cathedral), then up another street to reach our
lodging arrangement for the next two nights: Hostel Archi Rossi.
Entering into the “lobby,” the Archi
Rossi gave me a whole new perspective on the idea of a hostel. This place
resembled that which we had just left: a gallery for works of art. The walls
were covered with paintings, directly on the plaster. After checking in, we
escorted ourselves to the first floor (remember, first floor would mean second
floor, if we were in the States). The doors and greater portions of the walls
were covered with felt-tipped, permanent marker scribbles of all sorts: names
and dates, places of origin, friendly notes and risqué messages. If you have
ever been to the Pie Pizzaria just below the University of Utah campus under
the University Pharmacy, then you know what I’m talking about.
The room, comfortably fitted with two
bunk beds and a single, overlooked a small courtyard. We settled ourselves in
momentarily before heading back out to the streets below to find a place to
eat. A respectable establishment, located just down the road, suited our tastes
perfectly.
Established in 1943, the Trattoria Nerone Pizzaria Ristorante has everything anyone would want from an affordable
Italian pizzeria: ambiance, history, style, and flare. The mismatched furniture
seemed to be from the original founding, with some tables fitted with benches,
while another table (lower than the others) stood up to a couch gilded with
golden woodwork and knobby feet. Candlelight flickered at each wooden table,
each a character of its own with a thousand memories scrubbed into the grain.
Our server, an older woman with a
kind face, directed our order with a professional manner, speaking fluent
English without the slightest bit of consternation. I ordered the Quattro
Stagioni pizza and a flat mineral water, with a cappuccino to follow (as would
soon become my custom). A quattro stagioni consists of four items on a
delicious, thin-crust pizza: artichoke, olives, salami, and mushrooms. The
olives were fresh, pits still intact. It was delicious. The atmosphere and the
company mixed with the authentic Italian cuisine left us all in a great mood,
but the night was still young!
We planned to meet our Italian
friend, Ambra, at the Piazza della Signoria near the replication of
Michelangelo’s statue, David.
However, our after-dinner dessert was more important: gelato. After pizza,
cappuccino, and gelato, the whole experience of everything I had seen so far
overwhelmed me. I turned around to face everyone, as we walked with our frozen
treats, and exclaimed, “We are here! I can’t even… I… This is life!” Lisa
automatically returned, “That’s the title of your next blog!”
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Piazza della Signoria. |
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The group meets up with Ambra. Photo courtesy of Michelle S. |
We were soon standing under the
looming tower in the Piazza della Signoria, where Ambra, along with her English
speaking friend, Marta, were waiting for us. Ambra had planned a bit more
sightseeing for us, by this time it was nearly 11:00 PM. First, we crossed the
Ponte Vecchio, the famous bridge featuring many high-end jewelers during the
day. Then onto the square beneath the Pitti Palace, a grand building lacking
the artist’s flourish, but enough pomp and circumstance to hold my gaze. Back
across the Ponte Vecchio, we traversed the streets, every now and then catching
a glimpse of il Duomo peering down on us.
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Il Porcellino, the boar of Florence. Photo courtesy of Michelle S. |
We came to stand under a columned
pavilion featuring a bronze sculpture known as il Porcellino, a boar; the boar
of Florence. The nose shone bright in the city lights from the traditional rubbing of the snout. The practice involves placing your hand on the nose in
the hopes of returning; it reminds me of Matrimony Springs back in Moab: once
you’ve tasted the water, you’ll always feel the tug of Moab calling you home.
From il Porcellino, our group walked a few city blocks farther to sit in the
square at the Church of Santa Croce, the largest Franciscan church in Italy with a crypt that
holds the remains of Michelangelo and Dante.
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Church of Santa Croce. |
The night came to a close. We parted
ways, Ambra and Marta heading back to their car, and our group back to the
Archi Rossi. At this point, a small midnight snack was in order: des gauffres
avec crème et chocolat! A perfect end to a staggering day. We fell into bed,
ready for another day of exploration.
Florence – Feb. 25
Whew! Day 3. Just think, if you’re
tired reading this; I actually had to experience and process all of this! I’ll
try to keep my long-winded explanations out of Day 3. Anyway, call this an
intermission: snack break? Stretch your legs? Bathrooms are down the hall to
the right. Oh, the sun is finally shining! You had better go enjoy it while it
lasts.
…
You’re back? Well, let’s get
cracking.
Sometimes I just have to have my
way. This sounds a bit childish, but sometimes it works out for the best. Apart
from the great reviews, the Archi Rossi features an amazing continental
breakfast, featuring many breakfast staples and hot food items to make two
Dutch, a German, an Indonesian, and an US American happy. I knew, even from the
pictures online before reserving the room, that this would be the choice. It
took some convincing, because it wasn’t the cheapest option, but I think in the
end we were all happy with the result.
As per the usual, I was late for
breakfast. Though, I was still able to pile my plate with toast, sauerkraut and
sausages, mini quiches, fruit, tomatoes, and baked beans. The food was amazing.
I think I’d go back to the establishment just to have the breakfast. Anywhere
else, the all-you-can-eat breakfast would have cost just about as much as the
room rate. In the end, we were happy.
The sun was shining when we stepped
outside, ready for a day of discovery. It had rained the previous night. The
cobbled streets resembled a patchwork of miniature canals or river deltas. As
we made our way down the street, I spotted the telltale signs of a street
market: canvas pavilions with differing goods stacked to the ceiling. We
meandered through the market escaping with most of our money, though I was
worst off: I had succumbed to a new scarf and a genuine Italian leather belt.
Later, near the Ponte Vecchio, I would buy a new wallet, fitted with a snap
pocket for all the blasted coins that the Europeans insist on carrying around.
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Ghiberti's door [a replica]. Photo courtesy of Lisa H. |
Our main goal in the course of the
morning was the Basilica and its surrounding wonder. We came into the square of
the Baptistery, the Basilica, and the Campanile. The Baptistery, designed by the
great Ghiberti in an hexagonal shape with the famous bronze door, stood
before the doors of the great Basilica. The intricate bronze doors of the Baptistery gleamed in
the morning light: Ghiberti’s design had won out over Brunelleschi’s design for
the great doors. Though, in the end, it would be Brunelleschi’s design for a
dome that would give the Florentine Basilica renown.
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Brunelleschi's Duomo, the Baptistery, and the Campanile by day [with construction]. |
We made our way into the great hall
of the Basilica. Again, I stood, astounded. To think, this structure was built
with the technology of its age: a huge place filled with the solemnity of the
ages, the expanse of air suspended between the gargantuan stone walls brought a
hush to the mass of people below. A reverent tranquility had settled itself
there long ago, as a dragon would on top of its hoard. A tranquility that no
one would dare to disturb.
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Properly known as a groined vault, I think. Amazing. |
Soon, we had paid the fair to walk
ourselves up to the top of the dome. A grand work completed in the name of
grander ideas, yet a place that does not boast. A monument, an homage to man’s
brilliance, that just is, without any trace of hubris or self-serving ideologies.
A structure built for the purpose of worshipping God’s power on Earth. No
matter your beliefs, upon entering such a place, you understand the dignity and
strength of faith.
463 stairs later, after scrambling up
the sloping stairways that would be much scarier traversing on the descent, we
reached the lantern, the apex from which I could see the whole of Florence. At
this point, I think the photos describe that which words have trouble defining.
After a few moments of gazing out across the land, the city’s chorus rose up to
the dome: the city bells rang out, and the Campanile sung a sweet, throbbing
melody.
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Perspective from the lantern. |
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A view from the lantern. |
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Panorama 1 |
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Panorama 2 |
After our descent, we walked
aimlessly through the Florentine streets, drunk from the experiences of the
morning. Our wanderings took us back to the Ponte Vecchio, now bustling with
tourists and hawk-eyed merchants. Clouds roiled overhead, though decided
against spilling over into the streets below.
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Along the way, the Ponte Vecchio in all its glory stands. |
Once we had our fill of exploration,
we found the path back to the Archi Rossi, deciding to rest for the later
portion of the afternoon. The evening consisted of a long dinner, filled with
games and laughter at a sister company to the one previously visited. The next
day would find the group splitting to appease the interests of all, though each
would come back with stories of their own to tell.
At the close of the day, I knew I had
found one of my most favorite places in the world. That singular brush of the
boar’s snout will surely prove to be a relentless tug, one that will hopefully
pull me back to this wonder-filled place.
You
made it! The end of Part 2 of 5. The next portion will feature Venice in less
than 24 hours. I am grateful for those that stuck it out. I hope the photos
acted as a bit of relief from the monotony! Enjoy yourselves today more than
you did yesterday. Passez des bonnes aventures!